Culinary Destination: Valle dell’Angelo (Region of Campania, Province Salerno, Italy)

Drew and I had the opportunity to live in Italy for six weeks this past summer. The culinary landscape exceeded our expectations by far. Imagine going into any grocery store or market and there was a surplus of Italian ingredients (heaven). In 2006, Drew and I hit all the major tourist cities (Venice, Milan, Florence, Rome, Amalfi, Salerno and Genoa). This time around, our perspective and resources were different. Our home base was the charming neighborhood of Trastevere, Rome. We had our own kitchen and were wide-eyed about actually living in Italy for a substantial amount of time. From there we took trips south, heading into the region of Campania. This region offers some of Italy’s best culinary experiences and is famous for its buffalo mozzarella. The region encompasses the lemons of Capri and Sorrento as well as the vongole of Naples. My favorite destination that I will always hold true to my heart is my family’s home town of Valle dell’Angelo. For those of you who love a local experience, nature, hikes and agritourism – Valle dell’Angelo is the place to go. It is still Italy in the raw. Valle dell’Angelo is nestled away in the Park of Cilento and Vallo di Diano. There are many mountain towns in this area and you can easily gain access to hiking trails, caves, olive groves and breathtaking views. A trip to this area is best for the anti-tourist-tourist. As you linger from town to town I must emphasize getting on board with Italy’s Slow Food Movement. Try as many of the locally produced foods as you can. Drew and I stayed in a locanda (inn) in Valle dell’Angelo and were fortunate enough to eat the best Italian food we have ever had in Italy and in our lives. Our gracious hosts, Angelo and Carmela, took care of us beyond belief. Carmela was our chef of the evening. She presented us with a phenomenal primi of rigatoni ragu, followed by secondi which was chicken in a wine sauce with olives and vegetables. She then topped off the meal with a liquor-infused cake, famously known in the area, for dessert. Angelo poured us endless amounts of homemade wine and guided me on a genealogy tour of the entire town. We also had the pleasure of obtaining a bottle of limoncello produced by the Coccaro & Bruno family. I am so excited to have this keepsake and not to mention the limoncello was delicious too!

My other recommendations for this region:

Baia: Underwater Archaeological Park offers incredible views of sunken cities toured by glass bottom boats. Visit The Underwater Park of Gaiola.

Valle dell’Angelo: explore this mountain getaway by hiking and absorbing the local culture at the Locanda in the city center. Enjoy the local salami, cheese, limoncello, olive oil and wine. Read more on Valle dell'Angelo Daily Traveler: Dispatches from the editors from Conde Nast Traveler: In Praise of Bawdy Italian Folk Songs

Paestum: Offers Italy’s best preserved Greek Temples

Salerno: Offers the most affordable boat ride to Amalfi & Positano. I highly recommend eating spaghetti alle vongole.

Sorrento: Offers the most direct and hassle-free way to access Capri. Eat at La Kambusa near the port. The owner has his own lemon grove and a bed & breakfast located in the heart of the town.  He is one of the lead producers of limoncello in the area. For a more-than-satisfying dining experience, I highly recommend the foccacia, mussels, salmon gnocchi and the saffron walnut ravioli at La Kambusa.

Capri: Hike to the Arco Naturale, with a refreshing, fresh-pressed, blood-orange granita in hand. The stand can be found in the town of Capri in the piazza where the funicolare drops you off. Enjoy the breathtaking views and swim at the Marina Piccoli. It’s Capri need I say more?

Agropoli: Must have the buffalo mozzarella and explore the old historic center. Agropoli has had its hand in history with occupancy from the Turks, Greeks, Bourbons etc.